The Minaret and Archaeological Remains of Jam, in Afghanistan, is on UNESCO’s List of World Heritage in Danger. A project supported by UNESCO’s Heritage Emergency Fund provided new information for conservation of the minaret using drones and 3-D technology. The 65m-tall Minaret of Jam is a graceful, soaring structure, dating back to the 12th century. Covered in elaborate brickwork with a blue tile inscription at the top, it is noteworthy for the quality of its architecture and decoration, which represent the culmination of an architectural and artistic tradition in this region. Its impact is heightened by its dramatic setting, a deep river valley between towering mountains in the heart of the Ghur province. Watch the video
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Allocated steps of attire are clearly divided according to essential characteristics, but chronological boundaries are not sharp. The constant function of attire is presentation: to pick out or magnify a man and indicate his status. Constructive, aesthetic and sacred functions play different roles on different stages. Natural attire originated during primitive era, its elements were preserved in ethnographic suit. Adornments were made of available natural (plant and animal) materials, but artificial materials (ceramics, glass, textiles) were beginning to be used. Adornments mainly decorate the body, their forms correspond to its parts: head wreath, necklace, belt, bracelet. The joining between adornments made by wrapping, tying, stringing, piercing. Variegated colors were used, images of the natural world were reflected. Sacred and aesthetic functions were in unity. Heavy-metal attire has existed since the era of metal (Eneolith, Bronze Age) and during early Middle Ages. Heavy and numerous adornments of non-precious metal produced by forging and casting, fastened and kept draped clothes on the body uniting with it into a single structure. The attire of Finno-Ugric peoples fully represents this stage. Some things played the role of hard case (spiral and holder) or of supporting framework (head hoops), others cover cloth with metal layer (sewn and hanging plates, interwoven spirals). Attire stayed on pre-stylistic level, adornments from different regions are similar. With the increasing of complexity of
techniques first styles appeared (polychrome and carved styles, styles of champlevé enamel and of cloisonné incrustation). Constructive function and sacred protection were important. Metal details the best way perform the function of protective noise with jingling. III. Jewelry attire is typical for class society, for developed Middle Ages. Jewelry is made of precious materials in difficult jewelry techniques (cloisonne enamel, niello, filigree). Byzantine and Russian medieval attires are the examples. Jewelry items are linked together structurally and stylistically, their connection with clothing is typological. Silver bellshaped pendants and back head net complemented Russian compound headdress (“kichka”). Gold diadem in cloisonne enamel complemented band headdress. Constructive connection of jewelry and clothes became not very important, though sometimes was preserved. On the basis of fine and peculiar jewelry techniques original art styles and ornamental elements formed. Art images were able to reflect the symbols of concrete religions. Sacred and aesthetic functions are equally important. The accessory attire is characteristic to the New time and modernity. Adornments are made from the variety of materials and in every possible techniques, exist as other costume accessories, and even become not required. Items are linked stylistically and with color harmony. They complement the suit, can be replaced and changed, they are rather independent from the structure, style and typology of the suit. Jewelry correspond to the fashion and artistic trends of time, in most cases they do not have any semantics, except parting in sign suit related to specific events and subcultures. The main function is aesthetic. The attire is becoming more individual and formed by concrete person. The report is accompanied by examples of the hat and costume jewelery.

Author – PhD Zhilina, Natalia, Institute of archaeology RAS, Moscow, Russian Federation (Presenting author)
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